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Resources:
Because we are always trying to help you make the most of your Jeep's potential, we want to share our favorite resources with you! Here's a list of sites that we find particularly helpful to the Jeep world. Please let us know if you know of any another site(s) that would be beneficial to share with other Jeep enthusiasts like us!
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TOOLS AND TECH:
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FORUMS:
Forums are a great place to discuss everything about your rig from simple to technical, meet fellow enthusiasts, find places to go wheeling, and find vendors that
sell the parts you need.
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GENERAL:
Use these links to learn more about responsible wheeling and where you can do it.
OTHER COOL SITES:
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FAQ's
1) What is an Iron Y?
2) What do I do about Death Wobble?
3) How much lift do I have? The easiest and best way to figure lift height is with a hub to fender measurement. Using a tape measure, measure from the center of the hub (or wheel) in a straight vertical line to the bottom of the fender (assuming stock, uncut fenders and the vehicle is parked on a level surface). The measurements below are stock hub to fender measurements. The difference between your measurement and the number below is your lift height.
- TJ front: 18", TJ rear: 19"
- WJ front: 18", WJ rear: 18.25"
- XJ front: 17.5", XJ rear: 17.5"
- ZJ front: 18.25", ZJ rear: 18.5"
Keep in mind that lift heights will vary slightly from vehicle to vehicle based on engine/tranny combinations, as well as how the Jeep is outfitted with other accessories.
4) Do I need an adjustable track bar? We recommend adjustable track bars when you may change your lift height in the future, either up or down, with
taller springs or spacers, or heavy gear/bumpers/other armor. If that is not you, then stick with the fixed length bar.
5) Do I need adjustable long arms? We generally recommend adjustable arms when you are looking for over 6.5" lift and/or want to run larger tires (bigger than
33's). All of our rear long arm systems come completely adjustable, with no upgrade necessary.
6) What shocks do I need? This one is sometimes hard to answer, since "ride quality" is very subjective depending on the person. We will describe
the shock options we have listed on our site for you to be able to make a good decision you can be happy about.
- Hydro 8000: These are a good quality Rough Country branded heavy duty hydraulic shock. They will provide a firm but controlled feeling ride. You will
feel more of the road with the use of these shocks. They come in many lengths to properly fit your application.
- Nitro 9000: These are a good quality Rough Country branded heavy duty Nitrogen charged shock. They will provide a softer feeling ride. You will
feel less of the small bumps in the road but you will have slightly less body control than the Hydro 8000's. They come in many lengths to properly fit your application.
- Doetsch Tech 8000 Prerunner: These are an excellent quality Doetsch branded heavy duty hydraulic shock. They will provide a firm but controlled feeling ride. You will
feel more of the road with the use of these shocks. Head to head with the Hydro 8000's, they are slightly softer in valving. The DT8000's are a natural fit with those running long arm systems, becasue they offer very good control, and they come in the longest lengths available for a bolt in shock! They also feature
a built in bumpstop and a massive 11/16" chrome shaft. They come in many lengths to properly fit your application.
- Bilstein 5125: These are top of the line quality, Bilstein branded, monotube shocks. The Bilstein shocks come with a brushed aluminum finish that is both attractive and durable.
They offer the best in terms of simulating factory ride quality. This means they are the softest shock in our lineup. With the soft valving also comes more body roll while cornering.
These shocks are offered in many lengths to work with your application, however they typically have significantly shorter travel ranges than the Hydro, Nitro, or Doetsch shocks.
They also come with black shock boots AND shock adapters for no extra charge!
7) Do I need shock boots? No, shock boots are a nice upgrade, but not a requirement. Some people like them, some people hate them. You get to decide!
8) What size tire can I run? This question is another one that is hard to answer. There are many variables that you have to consider.
- Wheel backspacing or wheel spacers - Typically less backspacing means you will need a smaller tire.
- Lift height - Typically the taller you go, the bigger you can go.
- Axle position - If you have moved the axle much forward or back of its original position, you may have to run smaller, or have the ability to go bigger.
- Trimming - No trimming will require the smallest tires. Generally the more you trim the bigger you can go.
- Bump stops - With factory bumpstops, your suspension will be able to go as high as the factory intended with stock size tires. Increasing the size/length
of your bump stops will allow a larger tire to fit by stopping the upward travel of your axle sooner.
- Will you disconnect sway bars? - If you do, your axle will travel further. The more travel, the smaller the tire will fit, without other mods, like trimming and longer bumpstops.
- Tire brand - Tires vary in actual size depending on what brand you get. Most listed tire sizes are larger than the actual tire. For example a 33x12.5x15 tire may only
turn out to be 31.5" tall in real life. Research the tires you want before you buy. Most manufacturers will tell you actual diameter.
9) Do I need long arms? You might need long arms to have your vehicle perform the best both on and off road. Here
are some signs that you might need long arms:
- Your ride quality is poor and you wish the ride was softer.
- Your vehicle hops somewhat violently over bumps.
- You have Death Wobble.
- You can't crawl easily over uneven terrain.
- You're embarrassed to have your family or friends ride with you.
- You are constantly lifting a tire in the air, and losing traction off road.
- All your buddies already have long arms.
- You want the biggest ride quality improvement you can get in a bolt on package.
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